Journeys to democracy

The lakes, paddy fields and forests of the ancient village of Dutuwewa are a world away from Colombo’s high-rises and colonial buildings. As elsewhere, decisions taken by ‘old men’ in the corridors of power impact life here, just as these rural voters will impact politics nationally

PERSONAL POLITICAL
FROM DUTUWEWA WITH LOVE

By Beena Sarwar

Times are tough and it’s hard to make ends meet. A refrain heard from just about anyone in my home country Pakistan where the rupee has dropped to around 300 to the dollar. This is now comparable to the rupee in Sri Lanka, recovering from the biggest economic crash in its history. 

Stories of hardship echo from the island nation’s largest city Colombo to the farming heartlands around Anuradhapura district, a little over 200 km to the north-east. At the core of Anuradhapura lies the irrigation tank called Dutuwewa which sustains several villages. 

Sri Lanka’s rural landscape is dotted with as many as 14,000 such large and small irrigation lakes, known as wewas, built by kings thousands of years ago. 

A nearly five-hour drive on surprisingly good roads – testament to the rural infrastructure built after the end of the 26-year long civil war 15 years ago – brings us to the serene lakes, lush paddy fields and dense forests of Dutuwewa. A world away from the corridors of power and the glittering, air conditioned, high-rises of Colombo and its historic colonial buildings left behind by 500 years of colonizers – the Dutch, the Portuguese and the British.

A village school in a forest

The din of crickets from the surrounding forest forms the backdrop to everything  in Dutuwewa. The headmistress of the Palugollagama government school, who gives only her initials and last name, I. R. Ekanayake, is an ‘old girl’ who taught at schools around the district for 26 years and was posted to her alma mater as principal four years ago. There are two vice principals, 36 teachers and 506 students.

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